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When it's time to give your dog a bath, you should be well prepared for the process. Not only is it important to have the know-how for bathing your pet, it is also important to be well organized.

Dogs are not similar to people and should only be bathed when they are dirty or when they need a flea or medicinal bath. Over-bathing removes the natural oils in their skin and fur, and can leave the skin dried out and flaky. Dry flaky skin very often results in scratching. Frequent bathing also reduces the coat's insulative and waterproofing capacities. However, certain dog breeds that are prone to skin conditions benefit from regular bathing. Cocker spaniels, for example, benefit when bathed every 6-8 weeks.

When selecting a shampoo, it's best to use a good quality shampoo that is specifically formulated for dogs. Don't use a human shampoo. They are not formulated for a dog's skin or coat. A conditioner (also formulated for dogs) is a good idea, particularly if there are tangles and lots of knots.

To start, the best place to bathe your dog is in the bathtub or in a utility tub. If you plan to bathe your dog outdoors, make sure your hose has both hot and cold water. A cold bath is not only disagreeable, but can also cause rapid hypothermia. Bathing indoors is a challenge; as all escape routes need to be considered.

Bathe Your Dog in a Bathtub or Utility Tub

The following are some basic guidelines for bathing your dog:

Make sure that all your supplies are within reach before putting your pet into the tub. Dogs don't seem to remain in the tub very long when left alone. Your supplies should include shampoo, conditioner, scissors, several towels, cotton balls and a plastic container (for rinsing). If you are planning to clip the toenails, make sure that the nail clippers are also within reach.

Clipping a dog's toenails often causes some bleeding. If bleeding occurs, a dab of Stypic powder (or another veterinary recommended powder) on the affected nail usually does the trick. Sometimes, several applications of the powder are necessary. If you are hesitant to clip your dog's nails, have it done at your local veterinary hospital or pet grooming salon.

A rubber mat should be placed in the bottom of the tub so your dog's feet don't slide around, and so he or she will feel more secure and safe. Most dogs don't want to be there in the first place, so you need to make them feel as comfortable as possible.

Place one or several cotton balls in each of your dog's ears. Don't push the cotton too far down the ear canal; however, it does need to remain securely in place. The cotton helps keep water out of his or her ears. A drop of artificial tears (placed in the corner of each eye) prevents the shampoo from irritating the eyes.

Properly lift your dog in the tub, avoiding injury to both you and your dog. Place one arm in front of the dog's chest and one arm behind the rear legs, just under the tail. Make sure you bend your knees (not your back) when lifting, particularly if the dog is heavy. If your pet is too heavy to lift by yourself, always get help. Nothing hurts more than an injured back.

Turn the water on slowly and adjust the temperature. The water should be lukewarm. Thoroughly wet his or her coat down with the spray hose starting from the back end moving forward. Then, begin lathering your pet. Work the shampoo into a thick, rich lather. If you are using flea shampoo, some brands recommend leaving it on for several minutes. Read the directions on the container and follow them carefully or the results may not be achieved. Lather the main body, stomach, legs, feet, and tail.

Finally, pour a small amount of shampoo into your hands and gently lather the fur around the face and on the head. Be careful not to get the lather into your dog's eyes.

When rinsing, start with the head and work towards the rear. Cover your dog's eyes with your hand and gently rinse off the top of the head and around the eyes. Then, gently cover your dog's nose and rinse off the rest of the face and neck. Next, work your way down the body, making sure to rinse out all of the suds and shampoo.

If you are applying a conditioner, now is the time. Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations for applying the product. If a conditioner is applied, another rinse is probably necessary.

Remove the cotton balls from his or her ears and gently squeeze any excess water from the coat.

Rinse Your Dog From The Head To The Rear

The drying process is generally the part that dogs like best. Most dogs enjoy getting a vigorous rub down. To finish drying your pet, a hair dryer can be used. Never use a high heat setting and pay careful attention. Do not allow your dog to become overheated.

If you have questions about the type of shampoo, how often to bathe your pet, or whether or not to use a conditioner, don't hesitate to call your veterinarian.

When cats play, they incorporate a variety of behaviors into their play. Aggressive play behavior is particularly common in young cats and in cats that live in one-cat households. Play provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival, such as pouncing, stalking, biting, scratching, and clawing. If humans play with a young kitten using their hands and/or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that practicing these skills while playing with people is okay. In most cases, it is possible to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play is not acceptable behavior.

Since young cats and kittens need a lot of playtime, it is important to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your cat. This helps her understand that she is not the one responsible for initiating play. This also helps to avoid unwanted pouncing at inappropriate or inconvenient times.

One way kittens play is by grabbing each other with both front feet, biting each other and kicking with their back feet. This is also a way kittens try to play with hands and feet if being waved in front of them. It is very important to avoid using any part of your body, like fingers or toes. Redirect your cat's aggressive play behavior onto acceptable objects like toys. It may take some trial and error to find the toy that works best with your kitten so make sure you try a variety.

Often, discouraging unacceptable behavior is the only avenue that is available. You need to set the rules for your kitten's behavior and your family and friends should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can't be expected to learn to differentiate between people in terms of when it's okay for rough play and when it is not.

• Use aversion techniques to discourage your kitten from nipping or biting. You can either use a squirt bottle filled with water or a can of pressurized air to squirt your kitten when she becomes rough. To use this technique effectively, you always need to have the spray bottle or can handy. Remember that aversion techniques only works if you offer your kitten an acceptable alternative.
• Redirect the behavior. After you startle your kitten with the air or water, IMMEDIATELY offer her a toy to wrestle with or to chase. This will encourage her to direct her rough play onto a toy instead of a person. It is recommended that you keep a stash of toys hidden in each room specifically for this purpose.
• Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too rough. If the distraction and redirection techniques don't seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention. Since she wants to play with you, she is going to figure out how far she can go; however, you keep this limit consistent. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk into another room and close the door long enough for her to calm down. If you pick her up to put her in another room, you're rewarding her by touching her. You should be the one to leave the room.

PLEASE NOTE: None of these methods are very effective unless you also give your kitten acceptable outlets for her energy. You need to play with her regularly using appropriate toys.

Punishing your kitten for rough play by tapping, flicking or hitting are almost always guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten could become afraid of your hands or she could interpret those flicks as playful moves and play more aggressively. Picking up your kitten to put her into a "timeout" could possibly reinforce her behavior because she probably would enjoy the physical contact of being picked up. By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she has probably already forgotten what she did to be put in that situation.

If you find that none of these suggestions work and your kitten's play increases in aggression or becomes unpredictable, it can be best to seek help from a behavior specialist. Kittens can bite or scratch through the skin, and abuse by your cat is not conducive to a caring and mutually beneficial relationship.

If you own a pet, fleas and ticks are nothing new. In a special video report, Dr. Jim Humphries with the Veterinary News Network and PetDocsOnCall discusses the importance of flea and tick prevention and shares tips on how to keep pesky parasites away from your pet.

Aside from a discussion about euthanasia, aggressive behavior in animals is one of the most difficult pet topics to discuss. However, according to veterinarians and humane societies, the number one reason animals are euthanized is for behavior problems. We think of euthanasia as a merciful relief from suffering for an incurably ill or old animal. But the majority of pets are euthanized because of behavior problems.

Aggressive behavior in pets must be addressed without delay. The longer it continues, the harder it is to change. Don't wait until someone is injured to seek help with this problem.

Some behavioral problems result from medical problems. A thorough physical examination by a veterinarian may reveal an underlying medical condition. A dog may be aggressive due to an injury or a congenital defect. Hip dysplasia and car accident injuries account for many episodes of canine aggressive behavior. Dental problems as well as chronic skin conditions can make a pet uncomfortable, leading to a low level of tolerance, resulting in aggression.

Pet behavior is a new and growing field. Your veterinarian may have some suggestions on curbing aggressive behavior. However, veterinarians often don't feel qualified to give such advice because their training is in medicine and surgery rather than behavior.

If the pet is healthy and initial efforts to curb the behavior don't work, then it is wise to contact a board-certified behaviorist. This is a veterinarian who specializes in animal behavior. Since mishandled aggressive behavior is potentially dangerous, most specialists will want to see the pet and the owner in person.

A pet dog or cat is a 15-year emotional, physical and monetary commitment. A little advance planning can help make it a rewarding experience. Prospective owners can reduce the chance that they will end up with an aggressive pet by educating themselves. There are many good books and pamphlets on pet behavior and there is much information regarding each individual breed. It is strongly recommended to read several books about general pet care and about handling and raising a puppy or kitten.

When picking out a puppy or kitten, don't choose the most aggressive or the shiest one in the litter. Pick out a friendly, happy animal that comes to you. Then, while the kitten or puppy is young, allow him (or her) to experience a variety of different situations, people, and other animals. Early socialization is very important for the development of the pet and particularly how he (or she) deals with the world.

If you are considering adopting an adult animal that is known to be aggressive, be realistic about your expectations. Even if the problem was the result of the previous environment, rehabilitating an aggressive animal is a big project. To believe the animal needs only tender loving care is a mistake. Animals do change, but it takes love, persistence, and lots of time. An aggressive pet is a tremendous liability, especially if there are young children around. If a pet shows signs of aggression, the most important thing is to get help right away. Whatever you do, don't delay.

Good Nutrition

The very basic requirements for life are food and water. Good nutrition is the foundation of overall health. Since cats are natural carnivores, they require meat-based diets. Luckily, cat owners can choose from a variety of diets certified by the Association of American Feed Control Officials. These products are available from your veterinarian, your feed store or from your grocer. Pet food manufacturers spend huge sums of money touting the benefits of their products and the feeding trials conducted by the AAFCO in order to verify that their pet foods meet quality standards. It is always best to listen to your veterinarian as he or she may recommend a particular diet according to your cat's needs.

Nutritional needs vary with the cat's age and health status. Kittens should consume growth diets until they reach approximately nine months of age. At this age, young cats can be gradually weaned from kitten food to adult cat food. This should be done by gradually increasing the amount of adult food and decreasing the amount of kitten food over several days. If a food is changed too abruptly, this can lead to intestinal disturbances with diarrhea. Cats entering their golden years should transition from adult food to senior cat food in a similar manner. Specialty diets that address dental disease and hairballs are good preventive medicine diets that help avoid these health problems in susceptible cats.

Immunization

Rabies needs to be incorporated into every immunization program. Rabies is transmitted by bite wounds and vaccination protocols are often dictated by state or municipal regulations. Vaccinating cats helps prevent the transmission of rabies to humans.

Feline Panleukopenia (Feline Distemper) is transmitted from one cat to another. The virus is very resistant and can survive in the environment for more than a year. Since maternal antibodies interfere with immunizations, a series of vaccinations needs to be given.

Vaccination is highly effective for prevention of feline panleukopenia. All kittens should be vaccinated, and adult cats should be given regular booster vaccines. The vaccination series begins at six to nine weeks of age, and vaccinations are repeated until the kitten is approximately 12-14 weeks old. An adult cat should receive regular booster vaccines.

Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis and Calicivirus (Feline Respiratory Disease) are common viruses that cause approximately 90 percent of feline upper respiratory disease. These viruses are spread directly from cat to cat through respiratory secretions. Sneezing cats are known for transmitting the disease in catteries, animal control facilities and boarding kennels.

Cats and kittens are infected by contaminated material, as well as by other cats. The disease is occasionally fatal for kittens, though most cats recover. The respiratory disease organisms are extremely contagious, and cats that recover from the disease are often the principal carriers. Without showing any clinical symptoms, these cats can remain carriers for months and even years. Some cats never fully recover from the disease and show symptoms throughout the rest of their lives. Once several cats become infected, the disease is very difficult to eliminate from multi-cat households.

Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV) is transmitted through respiratory secretion through the sharing of food and water bowls or litter boxes. Mutual grooming, cat fights, and mating can also transmit the virus.

There are no symptoms that are specific for FeLV infection. Tumors, anemia (low red blood cell count), white blood cell and platelet disorders and numerous immune-mediated diseases are common conditions. The main effects of the virus are on the cat's immune system. An infected cat is extremely susceptible to any type of infection. Respiratory, oral and skin infections are common. Chronic digestive and urinary tract problems are also encountered. Vaccination recommendations for feline leukemia are based on the age of the cat and the risk of exposure.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus causes immunosuppression. Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) is spread primarily though bite wounds, making cats that are born of negative mothers, live indoors and never fight at low risk. Conversely, a cat of questionable ancestry that roams outdoors and participates in neighborhood brawls, is at high risk of infection.

Lymphocytes are important cells involved in the body's immune (defense) system. FIV infects and destroys these lymphocytes. Without lymphocytes, immunodeficiency results, leaving the body open to infection. Symptoms associated with FIV are generally due to secondary bacterial, viral and fungal infections.

FIV vaccination is controversial due to the interference of vaccinating with diagnostic testing. Currently available diagnostic tests do not distinguish between a truly infected cat and a vaccinated cat.

Vaccination of FIV negative cats living with FIV positive cats in an unstable social structure, or cats living outdoors that fight frequently, may be potential candidates for vaccination.

Feline Parasitology

De-worming of kittens and cats as part of a preventive medicine program is recommended. When the kittens are three weeks old, they and their mother should be treated with an oral de-worming medication. All kittens should be treated again at regular intervals and their stools should be checked for parasites. The U.S. Center for Disease Control recommends these guidelines not only to protect the kitten, but also to protect humans from possible infection.

Most people think that when a dog licks their face, the dog is giving kisses. In fact, dogs do not kiss. Although face licking can reasonably be interpreted as a compliment, it is not kissing as we understand it. Many dogs will lick whatever they can get their tongues on; hands, feet, faces, elbows and ears. In order to have a better understanding of the differences between what we consider kissing and our dogs consider licking, we need to know why dogs lick.

Types of Licking

Licking is seen first in the mother-infant situation when a bitch grooms her pups after birth. This helps clean the pups and also stimulates their breathing. This continues into puppyhood; the mother's licking not only cleans the pups but encourages them to eliminate. Human mothers bathe their infants and change diapers because they care, but no one would confuse the act of bathing or changing diapers with kissing. Because dogs can manipulate things better with their mouths than with their paws, it makes sense for them to use their tongues when it comes to cleaning. As a veterinary behaviorist so eloquently put it, a tongue is a dog's toilet paper.

Pups eventually groom themselves and also engage in a certain amount of grooming other dogs. Called allogrooming, this is a care-giving behavior that enhances bonding between individuals. It's very satisfying for dogs to have a buddy help out with those hard-to-reach places, and reciprocation increases the likelihood of future interactions. Allogrooming appears to be a gesture of goodwill and appeasement. It could be classified, along with rolling over and urination, as a sign of submission. Humans and other primates also groom and massage each other by way of pleasurable exchange. The significance of this behavior is similar, denoting friendly intentions and serving as a mechanism for reducing stress.

Pups lick their mother's face around the time they are making the transition from milk to solid food. This face licking is part of a greeting ritual in the wild when a bitch returns from hunting with a belly full of food. The purpose of face licking in this context is to get mom to regurgitate partly-digested stomach contents for the pups' dining pleasure. This type of face licking still occurs in domestic dogs, sometimes with the same result.

Another form of licking that dogs display is licking their own lips. Initially, this behavior may have evolved for the purpose of cleaning their lips after eating, but it now serves as an indicator of stress. It is similar to lip-biting in humans. Lip licking decreases as pups gain in confidence and feel more comfortable with their surroundings, but it doesn't disappear entirely, even in adult dogs. You might see a dog nervously licking his lips as he ponders his fate in a veterinary office.

Many animal scientists characterize face licking as submissive behavior. This is because face licking, like lip licking, is exhibited by dogs in situations of stress or conflict. Face licking is likely to occur when a subordinate dog has summoned up enough courage to approach a more dominant one. This brings up a possible parallel between face licking by dogs and kissing in non-human primates. Apparently, kissing is a common greeting behavior expressed when a subordinate chimpanzee greets a more dominant one. The dominant chimp may, in return, also kiss the subordinate during such meetings, though kissing by the more dominant chimp is only about half as likely. Could it be that when your dog greets you at the door with wagging tail and licks your face as you kneel to say "Hi" that he is actually acknowledging you as his leader?

Prevention of Unwanted Licking Behavior

Although some face licking is tolerable, "no lick" is a useful command to master. It should be incorporated into the training of all dogs that lick their owners excessively, preferably from an early age. No punishment should be employed during training; in fact, punishment is totally inappropriate and will teach the dog nothing except how to avoid the punishment. It is far better to reward the behavior that you want to promote. This can be achieved using a voice cue, "no lick", patient, motionless waiting on the part of the owner, and a valued reward (a treat, perhaps), delivered instantaneously, for stopping licking. If the licking continues, a veterinary behaviorist can be contacted to help provide additional recommendations.

While many of us enjoy our dog's "kisses", it is important to remember that what humans define as a voluntary act of affection may not be a dog's intention. Licking, in general, is harmless and can be considered normal dog-to-owner behavior. If the licking becomes obsessive, training your dog to only lick on command is a reasonable way to curb the unwanted behavior. Once a dog has been taught when licking is appropriate and how much is tolerated, receiving "kisses" from your dog is more appreciated. Understanding the behavior behind your dog's actions can only help you strengthen the bond between both of you.

On July 30, Procter & Gamble Pet Care division expanded its July 25 pet food recall to include additional veterinary formulas and some specialized Eukanuba dry pet food products as a precautionary measure. The original recall, just five days earlier, involved Iams feline renal dry food formulas. Although no illnesses have been reported, the possibility of salmonella contamination prompted P&G to recall the following dry pet food brands:

-- Iams Veterinary Dry Formulas: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Naturally Wild: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Pure: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Custom Care Sensitive Skin: All dry sizes, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

These products are manufactured in one specialized facility where testing by the Food and Drug Administration detected salmonella. As a precaution, P&G is recalling the products voluntarily in cooperation with the FDA. The contamination is limited to this facility, but affects all the products listed above.

Consumers who purchased the specific dry pet foods listed should discard them. People handling dry pet food can become infected with salmonella, especially if they have not thoroughly washed their hands after touching the products or containers. Salmonella can also be transferred to surfaces in contact with the products.

Pets infected with salmonella may have decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. Left untreated, pets may become lethargic and develop diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Even healthy pets can become carriers and infect other animals or humans.

Consumers may receive product refunds by calling Procter & Gamble toll-free at 877-340-8823.

Lyme disease, an illness that is transmitted by hard-bodied ticks such as the deer tick, is a serious disease affecting humans and pets across the country. While being around ticks may be hard to avoid, there are many things you can do to prevent Lyme disease from becoming a debilitating disorder for you and your pets.

Although Lyme disease has been diagnosed in people in all 50 states, over 80 percent of human cases have occurred in the eastern states from Massachusetts to Virginia. The disease was named after Lyme, Connecticut, where the first human cases occurred in 1975. Ticks obtain the disease from the mammals they feed on, which include rodents and deer, and pass it on to humans and other animals, such as dogs, through a bite. Symptoms of the disease in humans include a rash and / or symptoms of the flu, followed by joint pain and possible arthritis.

Pets handle the disease differently, however. For example, canines will not show signs of the disease for several weeks or months after infection. If it is caught early, they will respond quickly to a round of antibiotics. Symptoms in dogs include arthritis and occasional fever. If undiagnosed for a long period of time, dogs can develop glomerular disease, a type of kidney damage caused by overstimulation of the immune system by an infectious organism.

Similarly, the methods for prevention of infection differ for humans and animals. A vaccine exists for dogs, which should be boostered annually. It is also advisable to avoid tick-infested areas, if possible. Use of a tick collar or monthly topical preventative such as Frontline Plus, K9 Advantix or other similar product and careful examination of your pet after she or he has been in an area that ticks may be present are additional ways to prevent Lyme disease in your dog.

While the FDA approved a human vaccine in 1998, it was removed from the market in 2002 due to poor sales, according to the Winter 2001 / Spring 2002 issue of “The Lyme Times” (a publication of the Lyme Disease Research Center). The Centers for Disease Control recommends that people follow these guidelines to avoid or prevent ticks from biting:

• Use a repellent with DEET on skin or clothing or permethrin on clothing and wear long sleeves, long pants and socks. Do not allow children to apply repellants with DEET themselves.
• Wear light-colored clothing, so that you can see ticks if they are crawling on your clothing.
• Tuck your pant legs into your socks so that ticks cannot crawl up your legs.
• Examine yourself for ticks after being outdoors and remove any ticks you find.

Being outdoors is a fun way to spend time with your family and pets, and it also gives your pet the exercise he or she needs for a healthy lifestyle. Following these guidelines can help safeguard the people and animals in your life, ensuring fun and good times for all.